KRABI, THAILAND

Thailand is known for having some of the cleanest and most beautiful beaches in SE Asia. We decided that Krabi, a region on the south western tip of Thailand, would be where we spent the remainder of our time. We stayed in Klong Muang, a small, quiet, serene beach town. Still largely undeveloped, it was a remote dream come true. The water, a radiant turquoise, lazily lapped upon the shore, its temperature bath-like. Long tail boats spotted the coastline while karsts dotted the horizon. This was the backyard of our hotel. It was only thirty feet away from our room and where we had breakfast each morning.

Mornings were cool and sweet, the soft blue sky reflected off the water. The days were hot, but refuge was found under the shade and shelter of trees. Sunsets were perfect, with bold, jewel tones that gently cascaded behind Phuket. We savored each sunset.

Krabi’s crabs (insert joke here) were a charming characteristic. Large and fearless, they charged across the sand, regardless if your foot was in the way or not. Hermit crabs, more docile and obvious than their comrade camouflaged crabs, would slowly shift across the sand. Their shells seemed to etch themselves along like a magic trick. Bats circled us when we walked up the beach at night. It was pretty awesome.

All in all, it was an absolutely exquisite location to do….nothing.

Ok, we did do a few things.

A TOUR OF HEAVEN

From the backyard of our hotel, we were taken by long tail boat to visit three nearby islands: Hong Island, Koh Phak Bia and Koh La Ding.

Hong Island – The dock pieced together like a puzzle, composed of plastic tiles that bobbed with the tide. it was picturesque: a small cove, book-ended by two small karsts, with schools of fish that swarmed around us. We were like giants amidst a freeway of fish commuters.

Hong Lagoon  – After a few hours, we were taken to the other side of the island. From the center sandbar, shallow waters seeped into shadows where barnacle clusters and mangroves grew. There a small crab tickled my toes. Message received: I was on his turf.

Koh Phak Bia – Murky and rocky, the water was not great for swimming. Luckily the beach offered a plentitude of shade and stunning scenery.

Koh La Ding – Was a great, little cove with lots of shade, rope swings and people. The row of long tail boats parked on the sand was reminiscent of a parking lot.

Note: As the islands are part of a National Park an admission fee of $300 bahts/person was required. The fee was paid at Hong Island. Cash only.

Tip: Arrive no later than 10:00am. We spent two hours on Hong Island before moving on; we always seemed to be just ahead of the crowd.

GASTROPOD FOSSIL SITE

A large slab of granite contains fossilized mollusks dated over 75 millions years old. Online articles indicated there were only three sites like it in the world and as part of the National Park system, there was an admission fee, with rules and regulations to adhere to. But, there was no one to collect entry fees and all rules and regulations went largely ignored. The site looked forgotten, except for a row of souvenir stands that lined the parking lot. We hope officials understand the harm and erosion that is occurring because of the lack of presence by park officials.

ANNUAL NAGA FESTIVAL

Each year, the local restaurants, hotels and vendors gathered to host the Annual Naga Festival. Lanterns, tents and satin swathed stage garnished the sand. The opulence lacked appeal to us. We favored the local’s food booths. Fresh fruit, smoothies, potatoes on a stick, gyros, rice desserts…a plethora of food abounded.

SUNSET BAR

The location, hospitality and delicious fried pineapple curry rice and pad thai were by far the best ever. Located less than 50 feet from our hotel, they had “front row” seating on the sand, just steps away from the waterline. We enjoyed many beautiful sunsets there.

One evening, while enjoying a round of drinks and conversation with our new friend Lance, a small elephant named Yaya appeared out of the shadows. Escorted by two men, Yaya was well trained; she obeyed all commands and eagerly glupted her reward of sugar cane slivers. Though the young men seemed nice, watching this “small” elephant do tricks like a show pony made my heart break. I think Yaya’s heart was broken too; she had tears streaming from her eyes.

NEW FRIENDS

Lance, from Canada, was revisiting SE Asia for a fresh breath on life. Lance, a good guy, always had kind and supportive words to say. His zest and spirit for life was contagious. He keeps us updated on his travels through SE Asia: it’s like keeping in touch with family.

Lance introduced us to Maria & Andy. One morning, he said “I met a couple, that reminds me of you guys, that I think you’ll connect with. They’re just like you; they quit their jobs to travel.” Maria and Andy, however, not only quit their jobs, they also sold their home to release themselves of any responsibilities. We had to laugh, because appearance wise, we did resemble each other!

On our last evening, all five of us went down to the Naga Festival. It was a great evening of enjoying good food and each other’s company. Randomly, we reunited with Andy, whom we had met in Halong Bay. The day we departed, we enjoyed our last breakfast on the beach and had the pleasure of doing so with Lance, Maria and Andy.

One afternoon when I was meditating on the beach, a little boy ran past me with an inquisitive look on cute, small his face. I smiled at him, he grinned back. As I finished meditating, he ran circles around me. When I finished he gave me two green leaves and gestured that they were wings. I never did get his name but I hope he knows how special his gift was. It was a reminder forever imprinted in my heart.

We’re only bound by the beliefs we have. All we need is a little faith to spread our wings.

– Tania

PRETTY PAI, THAILAND

From Chiang Mai, we ventured north-west to Pai; pretty, small and remote. Like a demure gypsy, Pai vibrated like a bohemian rhapsody, nestled between rice fields and forests. The center of Pai was a two-block-wide conglomeration of restaurants, shops and bars. Just our speed.

GETTING TO AND FROM PAI

With 762 curves, the commute to Pai could vary from 3-4 hours, based on the form of transportation; taxi, mini-van or bus.

• Taxi: 2-3 hour commute, most expensive.

• Mini-van: 3-4 hour commute, $6 USD. High probability of car sickness.

• Bus: 4-5 hour commute, $3 USD. Less probability of car sickness.

We took a mini-van. Collected by truck from our hotel, along with several other passengers, we were shuttled to a mini-van, parked at a gas station. En route we met Kendra, a former admin assistant from Manhattan, who had quit her job to travel and was in the beginning of her travel.

At the gas station, we clambered out of the truck and saw we needed to squeeze into a mini-van that appeared full. Kendra and I exchanged concerned glances: where would all our bags go? The driver climbed to the top of the mini-van and gestured for us to hand him our bags. Our group exchanged doubtful expressions, shrugged and did as we were asked.

The drive to Pai was uncomfortable. The AC didn’t work very well and with 762 curves… miraculously no one got car sick. We later learned how fortunate we were. Many other people in other vans got sick. In fact, it was so common, drivers were ready with bundles of plastic bags to hand out. When we stopped at the half-way point (both ways), I could hear the hacking sounds of people that were sick.

Fortunately our ride from Pai back to Chiang Mai was much better. The van had a bit more room and the AC worked well. Though one teary-eyed lady was certain she’d get sick, but she didn’t.

Was Pai worth it? Absolutely.

PAI

Being in Pai was like stepping back in time. Not yet diluted with the chaos, noise and speed of a modern city, it pulsated with elephant lovers, yogis, Thai rhastas and hippies. In the night, Pai’s musical tones sparkled in the night sky like the many speckled stars above us. In contrast, the mountains were dark, with few lights. The peace in Pai was palpable, the temperatures were bi-polar.

The temperatures between day and night varied about 40 F degrees. The days were brazen, with the average temperature in the high 90’s F, whereas the evenings were cold, in the low 40’s F.

PRILPAI GUEST HOUSES

In the mornings, we’d shuffle out to breakfast, chilled by the cold morning air. We were greeted with Kom Tom soup or omelettes, prepared by Pakorn, the gentleman who ran the home-stay.

Though a bit outside of town, our wooden bungalow required a short commute each day. We rented a scooter and enjoyed the liberty of being out in the countryside rather than being tethered to the town. Our bungalow had an out-door bathroom, which granted me the opportunity to see an amazing yellow bodied bird, with a black head and yellow and black mohawk….while I peed.

Www.prilpaiguesthouse.com

OUR FAVORITES

THIEN ART SPACE – Its metallic, curved exterior looked like a UFO about to take flight. At night, candle lit lanterns and plush Moroccan pillows made for a unique and comfy space. Patrons were encouraged to draw with the blank paper and pencils that were provided. Draw I did, sprawled like a little kid, outside on their pillows.

THE SPIRIT BAR – Hidden off Walking Street, we were lured by sparkly lights that cascaded onto the street. The Spirit Bar was an alternate reality. Rhastas bartenders served up drinks near a log fire, a neon painted wood loft held hippies on plush cushions and a eco-friendly bathroom graffitied with “Peace. We are all one.”; felt odd but was oh-so cool.

SUNSET AT PAI CANYON – Random and awesome. Luckily, Kendra mention it upon our arrival. It was a short walk up steps to the look-out point and from there two trails forked out. There were quite a few people but because they were sprawled out, it didn’t feel crowded; it felt calm and tranquil. Behind us, a group of folks with an acoustic guitar took turns singing. We got to experience the sun set to the tune of “I Want To Be A Millionaire” by Bruno Mars.

Tip: Scooters park in the front lot, to the left of the drive way. Those who attempted otherwise got yelled at.

LAND SPLIT – Formed from a earth quake in 2009 and 2011, it was a cool sight. However, the best part was the hospitality of the family who owned the land. When we returned from seeing the land split, the guy said “Come, have a potato.” Dan and I looked at each other and silently asked, “A potato?”

We were provided with a unique spread of food: a cooked half potato, nuts, roselle jam, banana chips, sour candy, roselle tea and roselle wine. All of it home made; all of it delicious. As the family lived off of donations, we made sure ours reflected our appreciation.

Tip: To learn more about roselle, please visit: http://www.britannica.com/EBchecked/topic/509866/roselle

GETTING LOST – After the land split, we continued onto Pam Bok Falls. As it was dry season, there wasn’t much to see so we quickly moved on and decided to drive to a view point by a backroad. We got lost and never made it, but the beauty of the drive was worth it.

THOM’S ELEPHANT CAMP

Our friends Ana and Bernardo, per their research and experience, highly recommended Thom’s Elephant Camp. Of the various elephant camps and riding companies in Pai, Ana said “They were the nicest to their elephants”. The elephants had a smile in their eyes and playfulness to their behavior. Thom prefers their clients ride bareback (but chairs were available upon request) and their elephants wore only a rope around their neck.

www.thomelephant.com

The difference was apparent. Other elephants wore snug, thick, metal chains that connected with a foot shackle and wore riding seats (which are very hurtful to elephants). They had heavy-hearted gaits and a sadness in their soft eyes.

We rode Phom Pen (Pretty Lady) who was large, majestic and patient. There was something special looking out over the crown of her large, fuzzy head. As we neared the river, her pace increased with excitement; she knew what was coming, we didn’t.

With one, gentle shrug she tossed us into the cold water. It was such an honor to stroke her cheek and gaze into her large eyes. I thanked her for letting us ride upon her back and play with her. On the walk back, I was able to ride bareback on Phom Pen (no blanket and no rope.) Dan sat further back and had access to the rope. I felt pretty safe because Phom Pen tucked her right ear over my shin.

NEW FRIENDS

Kendra had a flare for life that I appreciated and understood. We had dinner together at The Garden and joined her and friends at The Edible Jazz bar. We lounged on a bamboo mat, under the starry sky and talked about our journeys. We keep in touch via Facebook. Kendra has her own travel blog:

www.kendratheescapologist.com

Sunita and Alex, a fun, funny, down to earth and adventurous couple from Switzerland. They were in the process of doing the Mae Hong Son Loop on motorcycle. They photograph their journey in such a fun and unique way. We’re hoping they return to Koh Tao to help run a scuba diving school; just an excuse for us to go back to Thailand.

Pakorn, the gentleman who ran Prilpai, was an avid photographer, whose unique images adorned the lobby and each bungalow. The photographs wonderfully captured nearby elements and staple characteristics of Pai. Pakorn and I now follow each other on Instagram. He’s my eye into Pai.

DRIVEN OUT BY THE BURNING SEASON

Each year, around mid-February the local people burn the brush in the hills and along the roads. Each day we were there, the haze got thicker, the smell of smoke harsher and the surrounding mountains’ distinct lines faded. Ash fell and it became hard to breathe. When we got lost on our country drive, we drove by road-side fires where the heat upon our skin was intense and rather scary. It was time to move on and move on we did, south to Krabi.

– Tania

CHIANG MAI, THAILAND

The Old Wall, North West corner

Chiang Mai, though much smaller than Bangkok, was a modern ball of energy unto its own. Surrounded by the old city walls, it pulsated with history and cultural heart.

Garuda at Wat Phra Singh

On our first night we roamed the streets and stumbled upon various sights that made up for an interesting evening. The Buddhist proverb garden at Wat Phra Singh made us pause and reflect, our taste buds savored the decadent desserts at Warorot market, our senses were overwhelmed by the Night Bizaar, and eventually we found ourselves in the Red Light District, seated at a Muy Tai fight. The quality of the fights were so-so but the overall setting was a novelty.

THAI FARM COOKING CLASS

Tom Yum soup boiling!

Was a lot of fun! Dan and I selected different dishes to prepare for a broader menu. We were first taken to a public food market and then to an organic farm outside of the city, where we each got a work station within a thatched roof bungalow. Our teacher Ning was adorable with her humorous instruction and charming references. Everyone was called “honey” and the burned wooden spoon was “poor little guy.” The food we made was delicious which made it difficult to not gorge ourselves.

Www.thaifarmcooking.net

From the class, we gained a greater appreciation for each fresh cooked dish we ever had in SE Asia. We’re happy to take some of Thailand home with us.

MONK CHAT
MCU, Buddhist University, Chiang Mai has on outreach program where visitors can discuss just about anything with a young monk and in exchange they (the monks) get to practice speaking English. Three sessions a week: Mon, Weds & Fri from 15:00 – 17:00, English speakers converse with monks. As with our Big Brother Mouse experience, we were able to gain an insightful picture into the daily life of a young monk.

Www.monkchat.net

Email: thaimonkchat@yahoo.com

During our conversation, we learned the term “Sammar Arjiva”.
• Sammar, pronounced sa-ma, means “good”.
• Arjiva, pronounced aw-gee-wa, means “work”.
When we shared that we were in the process of cultivating our next chapter, the monk said ” ahh, you will find your Sammar Arjiva”.

“Monks are just like us!” – is the revelation I had. They have cell phones, go online, use Facebook, watch movies, fly on airplanes…all modern conveniences are acceptable if it’s to further their education.

When asked if we had ever seen monks before our visit to SE Asia, we said, “Yes! At Arches National Park we saw a group of monks taking selfies!” Our monk friend thought that was pretty funny and broke into a heartfelt laughter.

Following is the only photo we have taken of and with a monk, per his permission.

Note: As monks are people just like us, please be respectful and always ask for permission to take their photo. They’re not celebrities and tourists don’t have to be the popperatzi!

MEDITATION RETREAT
The Monk Chat Organization hosts a 2-day, 1-night silent meditation retreat, made possible by a family who donated their land. The retreat center’s sole purpose is for this; to teach all kinds of people how to meditate.

Each participant wore a set of white clothes and were asked not to talk, at all, once the program begin.
Women roomed together and men roomed together. Room mates were not assigned, so we got to choose who to partner with. While en route to the meditation retreat center, I came to know Laura G. An awakened soul, Laura recently came to terms with life. She up and quit her job in the advertising world and decided to travel for a few months. Because we hit it off so well together, we roomed together.

To follow Laura’s blog, please visit:
Www.lauragomersal.wordpress.com

We were underway into our first round of meditation when an older gentleman, who had been sitting in a chair in the back of the room, collapsed onto the floor. The episode sent a ripple of shock and fear through the group. He was later taken to the hospital for possible food poisoning and a concussion (due to his fall).

Before sunrise, we were introduced to a series of Chi exercises. We shivered, our breaths white and distinct in the chilly air, we all did our best to follow. It was COLD.

The sick man, freezing morning and young boy that consistently disrupted our practice (not sure why a youth less than 10 years was allowed) composed a rather un-tranquil environment. But, during one of mediation sequences, in my space of clarity, I realized each disruption served a purpose. True zen is from within. So, perhaps, we were meant to have such a complex experience; baptism by fire.

At the closing of our session, the monks shared with us the intention of the practice: if we can all find peace in our space of meditation, we’ll be happier and therefore be kinder to the world we live in. Do good unto others and therefore make the world a better place. Inner peace can achieved in good service to others (Sammar Arjiva).

Tip: For more information, please refer to the website listed above.

We were fortunate to have dinner with Laura the evening of our return. We talked about our reflections upon the experience and were surprised at how tired we were from it. There was something to be said about trying to get our brains to calm down; were we so conditioned to worry, anticipate and calculate that it felt like a new muscle to just be at peace?

TAA-PENG-CAT CAFE

Peacock design in my cafe latte at Taa-Peng-Cat

Became our regular go-to for our first meal of the day. Though it rested right on the busy road of Sarlarn its patio was a little oasis. The staff, was very warm and friendly. By the end of our stay, they new Dan’s order and that I would prefer pad Thai over my regular order if it was available.

Tip: To locate them, they’re on Tripadvisor and Facebook.

GETTING OUT OF THE CITY

Rent a scooter or motorbike when in Chiang Mai to see the world outside of the old city walls. Though we we’re not overly impressed by the sights we went to, we appreciated the drive itself.

Buddha at Wat Phra Doi Suthep

• Wat Phra Doi Suthep – we were told “you haven’t seen Chiang Mai if you haven’t visited Doi Suthep”. Perhaps, over a dozen years ago before the air pollution, before being over run by busses of Chinese tourists and before loosing much of its sacredness to commercialism, it was likely worth it.

Sankampaeng Hot Springs

• Sankampaeng Hot Springs – situated East of the city by 45 minutes, its grounds were pleasant. The hot springs were funneled into a series of streams, that ran beneath wooden awnings where locals sat and dipped their feet into the warm water. One could boil quail eggs, buy a smoothie and camp on sight if they wished. The family that runs the parking lot was also very nice.

There was loads more places we could have visited; waterfalls, villages, temples. We just opted not to.

I went to CM with certain expectations in mind. I know, expectations always lead to disappointments. I had heard the city had a bohemian vibe, where free spirits went to be free thinkers and do thai yoga. Though the city still has a unique set of characteristics, the bohemian vibe seemed faded, at least in my eyes, under the mass modern developments. With that said, I am grateful for the experiences we had; a sense of enlightenment, a reality check by monks, good food and connections with good people.

– Tania

LAZY IN LAOS

 

Victory Gate, Vientiane

VIENTIANE

Concerned about our dwindling time, we hightailed it to Vientiane, the capital city of Laos. The relatively small city could be seen in a day, which we did, on foot.

Our hotel, situated near various eateries, was conveniently located around the corner from Lao Kitchen and Fruit Heaven, but the block of Samsenthai lacked character and charm. Overall, we found Vientiane meh.

Conclusion: a day or two TOPS is all that is needed in Vientiane

On the other hand, it was ok because Dan and I had to let our stomachs recover from having a bad coconut. We rested and as soon as we felt better, we bounced up and over to Luang Probang.

En route, the areas of deforestation could be seen. But, unlike Cambodia, there had been a sincere attempt to replant.

Main Street in Luang Prabang

LUANG PROBANG
LP had a lovely and lazy charm about it. Registered as a Unesco World Heritage town, it has been wonderfully preserved. Nestled between the junction of the Mekong River and Nam Khan River, it is a unique fusion of two cultures: Lao and European.

Here’s what we enjoyed about Luang Prabang.

FOOD

Belgium cider & beer at The House

The House – Belgium beer and good food. Had a fun, social vibe. They have movie nights and a Travelers’ Table where people can gather for dinner at 6:30pm to meet new people.

Bamboo Tree – They offer romantic, river side seating along Nam Khan. We didn’t have reservations so they created a table for us. Their food and service was delicious!

Joma Cafe – became our daily chill zone for wifi, coffee and reading by the river.

Nam Khan River

Le Banneton French Cafe and Bakery – lovely meals, delicious pastries and they’re located directly across from the temples.

Opera House – located near the night market offered a good selection of wine and people watching. The atmosphere was savvy, the food was so-so.

SIGHTS
We were so tired of sight seeing by this point we didn’t visit the museum or hill top temple. We did however make a point to visit Kuang Si waterfalls, per the the following blog: http://somanymiles.com/2013/05/how-to-get-to-kuang-si-waterfall-luang-prabang/

Kuang Si Waterfalls

The Kuang Si waterfalls were simply stunning. They’re what one dreams of. Freezing, clear water, cascaded into turquoise pools of bliss. Dan braved the chilly temperature and jumped in.

Dan enjoyed the refreshing swim!

Tip: since we opted to not do a tour, we hired a ride to the waterfalls for a fraction of what a tour would cost. We arrived around 11:00 and left at 13:00. Which was perfect because that’s when the tour buses rolled in.

Luang Prabang Night Market

LP’s night market was fun and interesting to walk through. The selection was diverse, colorful, and of good quality.

Note: We refrained from
observing the Offering of Alms to the Buddhists monks. Many reviews stated how little respected the tradition was by many tourists. According to what we read, buses of tourists arrived each morning with loud, disrespectful people.

BIG BROTHER MOUSE
Thankfully my former self wrote this name on a yellow post-it that was tacked in our Lonely Planet book. Our second stay happened to be right next door. It was fate.

BBM’s intention is to bring reading and English to children. Seven days a week, twice a day, they host English chat sessions. There, their students get to practice their English with English speaking tourists. We in turn were able to gain insight into today’s generation of students.

Www.bigbrothermouse.com

We connected with Tou and Tsim, both in 12th grade. They were Hmong children, the first of their families to learn English, and thus represented a transitional generation. Typically, Hmong have many children so there is sustainable help to run the farm. But as they send their children off to school, the result is less money is generated due to the loss of farm hands. Which is ironic since it takes money to receive an education.

Tsim, a middle child, has inspired his younger siblings. He tries to send books home whenever he can and wants to earn more money to afford supporting their future schooling. He lives with his teacher and several other classmates so he can attend school. Once or twice a month he returns home to his village, two hours away, to visit and teach what he can to his siblings.

Tou is the oldest among 12 children. His younger brother is studying to become a monk. Tou wants to continue onto university to perhaps study business and has quite the sense of humor and the knack of English slang and humor. When we parted ways, he said “See you later alligator.”

Tania, Tsim, Tou & Dan

While the old quarter of LP is a charming bubble of sophisticated eateries and bars, historical significance, spas and quaint guest houses, once out of the city, it was apparent how the people do struggle. The smooth, paved roads gave out to hard packed, dusty dirt roads. Homes along the road were in disrepair and trash litter resumed. Laos may be doing better than Cambodia, but one has to wonder just how much better?

As mentioned, by the time we reached Laos, we had grown tired of being tourists. The bonds and calling in Cambodia made us realize, that though our journey has been a wonderful educational experience, it was no longer sustaining to just pass through and see things. We wanted to ground in, get and be connected with people.

Thankfully our exchange with Tou and Tsim gave us a bit if that. Ever since meeting them, my head has been trying to come up with a way to sponsor them.

At the night market, while passing through stalls, I crossed paths with a little girl who ran back and forth. When I interrupted her path, she grabbed my lag and gave my thigh a big bear hug.

I said, “Hi.”
Her squeeze tighten, I think, to show how strong she was.
I smiled and patted her shoulder.
She squeezed tighter.
Not sure if she understood English, I gently patted her head.
She squeezed again. She didn’t seem to be going anywhere.
Dan,”Do we have to keep her?”

The little girl eventually got called away by her grandfather. I had to admire her fiesty-ness. I especially appreciated her broad smile when she looked up at me, because in no way was I unfamiliar or different or a tourist. For that one moment we were all the same in her eyes.

– Tania

SIEM REAP, CAMBODIA

Phnom Penh clung to my heart like a warm blanket. Everything we experienced and learned was forever engrained. As it was time to move on, we ventured north from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap. Siem Reap was a long awaited destination because of its ancient origins and beautiful, mysterious construction. Our drive wove us through small towns, villages and farms. The road hazard upgraded from dogs to cows and water buffalo.

Our accommodations were located across the river from the Night Market and Pub Street. Per our custom, we walked the town on our first night to get a feel of its layout. The Night Market and Pub Street had a fun, easy going festive vibe. Clothing stalls, vendors, bars, spas, and eateries all mingled together in a lively collage of lights and music.

Our first evening in Siem Reap was a fun distraction. We ended up with our feet submerged in a tub of fish that nibbled at our feet. It was $1 for 30 minutes and a free drink. Why not? In the beginning it was insanely ticklish but by the end it was rather relaxing.

Next, we ended up at an outdoor foot massage place that was $2 for 30 minutes. Delightful. There are many foot massage places but the cheaper and better ones are located in the north west corner.

Back in Phnom Penh, while touring AIM’s rehabilitated grounds, we struck a chord with fellow tour-goer Gareth. When he heard Siem Reap was our next stop, he referred Pheng a tuk-tuk driver.

Fortunately we were able to coordinate with Pheng via Facebook and book him as our guide for the next morning to visit Angkor Wat. Pheng, professional and informative broke down the various ways we could route our stops, based on 1, 2 or 3 days. Per the info he provided we opted for 3 days.

Three days amounted to an intense first-hand education and spiritual experience. Walking through ancient structures, built in such a profoundly stunning way, was life changing. We were fortunate to have a few moments of reprieve from the crowds where a quiet spot commanded us to stand still in the soft breeze of its shade and just listen. The energy was soft and serene.

On our second day, like many, we took part in watching the sunrise over Angkor Wat. We were collected by Pheng at 5:00am; early enough there was a chill in the air. We thought ourselves to be super troopers until we drove by many other tuk tuks and bicyclists and were proved wrong.

As the sun rose, I meditated at the north meditation hall. I was grateful for the experience and humbled in the grace of all that was and still is.

Our third day was a dynamic contrast between magical and dismal. After visiting the Banteay Srei Temple that was over run by busses of Chinese tourists we moved on to Kbal Spean.

Kbal Spean is a collection of ancient rock carvings in the Kulen Hills, just outside of Siem Reap. It was likely one of the original Khmer worship sights. Much of it now lays beneath a stream that acts like protective sheath of glass.

The stream runs down the mountain and at one point collects to make a natural pool. There, various butterflies danced about. I sat still and they landed upon me. It was said that the area was chosen for its special energy. I could feel it. Almost everything within the space glimmered as if it had been sprinkled with fairy dust.

At the base of the trail we had lunch at a little eatery ran by a young lady, who’s infant daughter lay asleep in a swaying hammock. After lunch another young lady came by who sold the touristy pants that ballooned out with an elephant print. Her price was so good I bought two. In talking with her I learned she had an 8 year old son and baby boy. It costs her $3/day to feed them. Because she priced her pants so low, she only profited $2 from our exchange. My heart sank at hearing this. She drives 15 km a day to her shop and sells little because most tourists have already bought so much in the city. But she makes that drive each day, opens her shop and does her best to sell her merchandise.

Our last stop was the Landmine Museum, an informative and sobering education on the disastrous effects of war. All about the museum were various missiles and bombs that have been carefully uncovered. Much of it was tagged by the U.S. The organization is also home to many children, from farming villages, that have been handicapped and or orphaned because of land mines.

To learn more about this organization please visit:

Www.cambodialandminemuseum.org

On our last night, before seeing “Phare” Pheng took us for authentic duck soup. Boiled at the table on a portable gas stove, fresh spinach, veggies and duck were made into a yummy soup. Be it known, every part of the duck was used.

PHARE was an acrobatic production in a similar style of Circus de Sole. It blew our minds, made us laugh, made us gasp. The cast’s talent and energy was amazing.

Phare’s mission statement:

” Phare Performing Social Enterprise has three complimentary social missions: Provide gainful employment to Cambodian youth from difficult social and economic backgrounds, financially sustain our parent organization Phare Ponleu Selpak NGO school thereby contributing to the rebirth of Cambodian modern art.”

Www.pharecambodiancircus.org

Pheng was a wonderful guide. He provided much information and insight into the history and Cambodia’s current culture. If you ever find yourself in Siem Reap, here is Pheng’s contact info:

Facebook: phengkunthea@facebook.com

Email: phengkunthea75@gmail.com
Sokthai41@yahoo.com

Website:
Www.angkortuktukdriver.net

GETTING REAL
Our discussions with Pheng further deepened my understanding about Cambodia. After the devastation by the Khmer Rouge, furthered by U.S. involvement, much of the country was economically and educationally left barren. There is limited structure in place for the betterment of its people, rather it seems in a sad state of limbo.

Most items sold at the markets are not first rate quality and cheap designer knock-offs. As many Cambodian vendors are concerned about immediate profit, they lack the foresight to understand the harm caused to the longevity of their potential success. Once word spreads that Cambodian markets are not worth buying from, the tourists will stop buying. Unfortunately, so much of Cambodia is dependent upon tourism.

At the top of the Kbal Spean trail was an adorable little puppy whom was coddled and cooed at it by many people. It wasn’t shy about walking up to people and seeing if they had food.

I gave him some peanuts that he happily ate from the palm of my hand. When the peanuts were gone, the puppy looked under my hand for more, then back in my hand, then under it, then at me with “why isn’t there more?” He walked after me for a bit to make sure I didn’t have any more food. Unfortunately I didn’t.

That’s when I realized, that all those vendors that follow after tourists, some relentlessly, are after the same thing; to not be hungry.

KEEPING IT REAL
I’d like to take this opportunity to share about our new friend Gareth. Gareth, like Chad (AIM’s Team Coordinator) was compelled to move to Cambodia to be a part of the rescue and protection of children who are or have been trafficked and or sexually abused. Gareth, volunteers teaching English to street vendor kids at the Riverfront. There he is privy to a lot of firsthand circumstances; parents in negotiations with tourists to sell off their children for money, children talking about sexual abuse. He does not presently work with a particular organization but hopes to join one in the near future or establish his own. Gareth, a good spirit, with a great heart, is my open window into Cambodia culture.

In what I have learned, it is impossible to not want to lend a helping hand. One person cannot change a country, but one individual can make a positive difference, just like Gareth. I intend to make a contribution to Cambodia in some way. Otherwise, it’d be like ignoring a starving puppy.

PHNOM PENH, CAMBODIA

We crossed into Cambodia by bus and went through the rigamarole of getting our visas processed. As soon as our bus hit the streets of Cambodia, everything was distinctly different. Gone was the modern sophistication and greenery of Vietnam. It was replaced with a thick blanket of dust and brown haze of pollution every where the eye could see.

Due to recent developments, much of Cambodia’s trees have been logged. Though the intent was to replant there has been no follow through. Without trees, much of the land is barren and brown. It has not yet been fully realized what the repercussions of not replanting will mean. The air pollution is from various sources; black smoking tail pipes, burned trash (plastics included), char  coal and brick factories.

We began in Phnom Penh, Cambodia’s Capitol. A developing city, construction was taking place everywhere. Little by little, hubs are being flipped with fresh face lifts by foreign investors.

But the fact remains; Cambodia is sadly poor. Stricken by wars, stripped by politics, starved by poverty, there is a distinct gap between the rich and poor, educated and uneducated, and little is being done by the government to mend it.

We delved into the recent history that made Cambodia what is today by visiting the Cheung Ek Genocidal Center (aka The Killing Fields) and Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum (aka S-21). After careful consideration we believed it was as important and as invaluable as seeing a holocaust camp.

Our tuk tuk driver collected us from our hotel and we made the bumpy ride out to Cheung Ek. Without guidance I don’t think we could have found it easily on our own through the myriad of roads and lack of signage.

Side Note: the roads are in great disrepair. Ladies, wear a good sports bra; trust me. Anyone with back issues should consider alternative transportation like a minibus.

Cheung Ek frames a dark time of savagery and loss but it is done with love and compassion. The center was well thought out, organized and structured with care. As audio tours were available in various languages, we popped on our headphones, guide maps in hand, and walked the grounds per the numbered sights.

Walk way in Cheung Ek

We sat along a walkway and listened to the “bonus audio” of additional testimonials. Behind us a chain link fence, backed by barbed wire, separated the grounds from surrounding rice paddies. Through this fence an elderly man, missing his left leg, asked for money. Further down a young boy, small enough to fit under the barbed wire, his face smudged with dirt, with a soft voice also asked for money. We both gave them a small sum.

When we resumed the tour, little by little the numbered sights gave way to the gruesome and heart wrenching reality that bones and clothing are still being unearthed by nature. At one point, we looked down and realized we had to be careful of our feet so as not to step upon human remains and the now-rags that used to clothe those bodies. It sucked the air out of our lungs.

Memorial stupa at Cheung Ek

In the center of the grounds is a tall stupa, a memorial, that contains many skeletons. We made an offering of incense and flowers before entering. I knelt down and prayed for all those souls and thanked them for being so brave. They are part of an invaluable lesson that many of us are indeed paying attention to. Their deaths were not in vain.

A bit numb, we continued onto Tuol Sleng (aka S-21). Originally a school, the Khmer Rouge transformed it into a prison, where people, even whole families, were sent, interrogated, tortured and killed. S-21 sits amidst a part of town, between apartment buildings and businesses. At first, it seemed strange having residents’ views look down into the old school yard. But, the reality is; Cambodians are not strangers to suffering. They’re well aware of how they’ve suffered; a bubble isn’t needed. They are not turning their backs on what happened by fortifying S-21 from the rest of the city. That would be dishonest and disrespectful to all those that perished.

Outside Tuol Sleng (S-21)

Since entire families were extinguished by the Khmer Rouge, so much family structure was lost. Mix that deprivation, lack of education and poverty and there was the foundation for child sex trafficking.

A child from a poor family is considered a commodity; a way to earn money for the family. A child can be sold for as much as $2,000 USD. For a poverty stricken family that is lot of money. To add, a child at the age of 15 is considered a legal adult to consent to a sexual relationship. Children simply are not protected by law. Many of them are part of the child labor force that work in brick factories today. They toil many hours in harsh working conditions for such little compensation.

Within this harsh reality however there is hope. There is hope in the people. It can be seen in their willingness to work and in their kind manner. Acknowledge a Cambodian by speaking Khmer “Sues-Day” (hello) or even “aw-Tay aw-koon” (no thank you) and you see their face light up for a moment, because what you’ve said is “I see you and you matter”.

There is also hope by foreign charities who genuinely care. One of those groups is AIM (Agape International Missions) who has painstakingly rehabilitated Svay Pak which used to be one of the largest areas of brothels for child sex trafficking.

We were fortunate to be connected to the Administrator, Emily, through good friends Dave and Jan, her aunt and uncle and had the privilege of seeing the grounds first hand that AIM has rehabilitated.

Dan & I with Emily Butler, AIM Administrator

AIM’s structure is amazing. They have implemented a rehabilitation home, a school, counseling, trade skills, fair trade jobs that include daycare, medical, daily lunches and salaries.

Grounds for new school by AIM

 

One of rooms where girls learn a trade skill. We were not allowed to photograph any survivors.

They even reach out to men who were and are pimps to educate them on why sex trafficking is not the way. As many families were destroyed by the Khmer Rouge and many are so poor, the immediate gratification is money to survive because of the lack of family value. Many parents will sell off their children simply for the money.

The reality that is broke our hearts but the fact that there are organizations like AIM inspired us. Chad, Team Coordinator, and our guide was fueled by the documentary “The Pink Room” which brings to light what was happening in Svay Pak. Chad shared, “When I saw The Pink Room I just knew it was my calling and I surrendered to it.” A year later, he became part of the team.

Moved by the cause and AIM’s efforts, I too feel a calling, a knowing, and am cultivating an idea to contribute.

For more information on AIM, please refer to the following links:

AIM website: http://agapewebsite.org/
CNN Documentary: http://thecnnfreedomproject.blogs.cnn.com/category/every-day-in-cambodia/
The Pink Room Documentary: http://agapewebsite.org/portfolio-items/the-pink-room-documentary/

Another approach is by charities that have parlayed themselves into cafes and coffee shops. Funds go into their organization to continue helping those they are focused on.

Jars of Clay – only staffed and ran by women serves healthy dishes and uses revenue to help women and girls from various backgrounds who have experienced hardship.

Www.jarsofclay.asia/

Our coffee in cute to- go cups from L’Irristable

L’Irristable Coffee, a cozy cafe who’s proceeds assist the disabled and others in need.

http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g293940-d6691493-Reviews-L_Irresistible_Coffee-Phnom_Penh.html

Brooklyn Pizza & Bistro, a lively cafe that serves pizza, pasta and more. Though they support a charity, at the table they focus on the food and your experience.

http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g293940-d5523674-Reviews-Brooklyn_Pizza_Bistro-Phnom_Penh.html?m=19904

AIM even has a charitable store front to support their screen printing division. It hosts a collection of fun t-shirts to fund their efforts. We stopped in and Dan got a shirt that made humor of the motorbike as family transportation. If you’ve been anywhere in SE Asia then you understand the humor.

MADE
#10Eo St. 144
Phnom Penh, Cambodia
+855 78 592 002
Hours: Mon-Sat 9:00am-8:00pm

AIM’s store front MADE

 

Inside MADE

Phnom Penh is not a tropical paradise; its not pretty; it’s chaotic and dirty. While rich foreign investors are taking root and much of the city is currently developing, many Cambodians are poor. But, there is a heart there. There is hope and inspiration.

-Tania

 

HUE, HOIAN & HO CHI MINH

Hue provided the historical backdrop we had been seeking. Hoian was the sweetheart we’d been missing. Ho Chi Minh (HCM) was the economical juggernaut of intensity we’d been expecting.

HUE (pronounced hWAY)

We swept through Hue in two days. To maximize our time we opted for the City Tour. Picked up by motorbike, we were whisked off to a dragon boat and sent down Song Huong (Perfume River). We took in:

A traditional garden house
Thien Mu Pagoda
Ho Chen Temple
Minh Mang Tomb
Khaki Dinh Tomb
An incense making village
Tu Duc Tomb – oldest existing tomb and temple
Citadel & Royal palace (Forbidden City)
The fee was $10 USD/person and it included lunch and all transportation.

Our guide Bing was a sprite fellow, who spoke good English and was very informative. Through him and the sights we visited our insight into the history, culture and traditions of Vietnam became fuller, well-rounded.

Dragon Boats along Perfume River, Hue

 

Thien Mu Pagoda, Hue

 

HOIAN (hoy-an)

Initially Hoian was not high on our radar, but after talking with fellow tourists who had visited, it became a must-see.

Located along the Thu Bon River, it had a soft, mesmerizing rhythm that nuzzled us to extend our stay. Our comfy accommodations at Hoi An Greenlife Homestay, made extending an easy no-brainer. HGH provided a warm welcome and stay, with spacious, modern and clean rooms. The staff was incredibly sweet a nd thoughtful. They got Dan a personalized birthday cake and gave us “thank you” gifts for staying with them.

Rice fields surrounding Hoian Greenlife

Breakfast was served on the rooftop terrace that had a beautiful view of rice fields. When we left, I hugged the ladies good-bye because they were genuinely so kind.

Www.hoiangreenlife.com

When people talk about Hoian, they usually talk about bike rides to the local beaches, tailor made clothes, great food, and the beautiful lanterns that light the city at night. Our testimonial only varies by a few details.

Due to our budget we had no intention of getting any tailor made clothing, but it still happened. We found ourselves in a store, being measured for our order. Biking to beautiful white sand An Bang beach included being yelled at by “parking monitors”. On our way back, the rice fields glowed under the sunset. The lanterns at night were spectacular. The city by day was charming, romantic by night.

Food. We ate and ate. Our favorites were: Cargo (where we had Dan’s birthday dinner), Annen, Minh Hiêń (per Andy and Didi), Orivy and the Bahn Mi Anthony Bordain visited on his show.

Nienke and Matt joined us at the Dive Bar to toast Dan’s birthday. They were very thoughtful and arrived with a bottle of Vietnamese rum. It was delicious and thank goodness there was a group of us to share it. As most bars closed at midnight, we ventured off to after-hours. The procession of people looked like Walkers, groaning and staggering.

Spoiled at the spa? Most definitely. We were referred by fellow hotel guests to Aaron Spa. The staff was trained well and provided top notch quality at Vietnam’s dollar. The owner Vuong made sure Dan and I were happy and tossed in free foot massages and scrubs. My body felt like molasses and my skin felt like silk.

HO CHI MINH
We were overwhelmed by the masses of people, large buildings and city lights. One could think we didn’t grow up in Los Angeles! HCM is a very modern city architecturally, economically and energetically.

We strolled through District 1, the Backpacker zone, visited War Remnants Museum, Notre Dame Cathedral and Central Post Office. A visit to the WRM proved to be an educational eye-opener and heavy on the heart.

A must-see was the Water Puppet Show at The Golden Dragon theater on our last night. We had missed the opportunity to see one in Hanoi so I am glad we had the opportunity to catch it in HCM. Historically, puppet shows were only performed on palace grounds but eventually escaped the palace walls and had to be done in secrecy. The rice fields became commonplace and the puppetry evolved to fit the stage. The show we watched consisted of various stories passed down from many generations. The artistry and musicianship involved was incredible. I am so glad people are making a point to preserve this art form. It really was unique and insightful.

Knowing our food experience was coming to an end, we tried a few last dishes: bitter melon soup, pumpkin-shrimp soup and two dessert drinks: sweet green been and a orange and cassava mix. The bitter melon was not my cup of tea but the others were quite lovely. My tummy was sad that it had to leave Vietnam.

Visiting Vietnam was a wonderful experience. I have such an appreciation for the culture, history and of course, the food and coffee.

Xin Cam On (thank you)
Tania

 

HALONG BAY, VIETNAM

Halong Bay became a World Heritage site in 1994. With over 1,600 islands and islets, its limestone formations truly were a beautiful wonder to see. Though we heard it was amazing, to see it and experience it for ourselves was still other worldly.

We booked our tour through Friends Travel. Their office was located just down the street from our hotel. The owners Sidney and his wife Thao were very informative, without the hard sell.

Www.friendstravelvietnam.com

Dan and I opted for the two day, one night stay on a private island for $79/person. It included cruising through Halong Bay and Lan Ha Bay, lunch, kayaking, dinner, breakfast, all transportation and the option to extend our stay.

We were collected by shuttle in Hanoi at 7:20am. Our group consisted of six: A French couple Romain and Manuin, Matt an Australian, Nienke from The Netherlands, Dan and myself. The size of our group allowed us to get to know Nienke and Matt; both very sweet, down to earth, fun individuals. Romain and Manuin were also very nice but were not as talkative.

NIENKE
Mid-20s, just finished medical school. Had a 6-week break before starting her residence in neuroscience. Nienke has always known she would go into medicine; she couldn’t envision doing anything else.

MATT
Quit his job as a scuba instructor, went to University to study renewable energy and just graduated. He was in debate about moving to San Francisco, where the energy industry is prevalent or doing something mindless for a year to save up and travel.

After a three hour drive, we arrived at a ferry that took us to our cocktail cruise. There we met Sebastian our guide, from Columbia. A former jujitsu instructor, he had just begun traveling through SE Asia with his best friend, when they got offered jobs as tour guides. His daily office is Halong Bay. Oh how we envied him.

We clambered aboard and watched the scenery change as we made our way through Halong Bay. After an hour we were served a hefty lunch, then it was another two hours of cruising before we reached Lan Ha Bay to kayak. En route, Sebastian brought out a cocktail bucket; a mysterious, citrus concoction with several different colored straws. Was it wise to drink before participating in a water sport? Not really.

We kayaked through two isolated lagoons. Simply amazing. After an hour, our mouths agape in awe, we returned to the boat and the guys dived off the top. The further south we boated down from the more breath taking it became. Throughout the day each of us said, “wow, this is incredible.” We were so happy and grateful to be in the world.

It grew very cold on the open water as it neared sunset. We were all eager to arrive at the hotel and get warm. Finally, cold and numb, we arrived at Cat Ong hotel. They served us ice cold cocktails. Not ideal but I was thirsty. Then we were shown to our dormitory bungalow. Matt and Nienke, the singles, shared a room with two twin beds and had their own full bathroom. Lucky ducks.

Romain kindly gave us the middle room; a romantic setting with a lovely view of the bay framed by a set of French doors. Romain and Manuin took the first room that looked like an after thought. It was clearly the living room with two queen beds, side by side, on the floor. The beds lacked proper bedding to be fully covered and had only one mosquito net above the right mattress. Weird. Furthermore the common bathroom we shared had a glass paneled door so anyone’s naked ass was totally visible.

Hot water was only available at night from 6-8pm and in the morning from 7-9am, so a few of us opted to quickly shower to thaw out our bones.

We gathered in the main hall at 7:30 for dinner and huddled near the fireplace. Dan felt ill so he didn’t join us at the bar. Per the menu I ordered a hot chocolate and Bailey’s.

Guy at the bar: “No hot chocolate. Maybe tomorrow.”
Me: “Can I have a shot of Bailey’s?”
Guy: “No, we no have”.
Matt: “But there’s the bottle in the case.”
Guy: “No, it’s empty. No more. Only for show.”

To compensate the guy gave me a free shot of some yellow stuff. As Matt had taken a shot earlier and seemed ok, I drank it. It put a bit of hair on my chest. Later, the same guy made a cup of hot tea for another guest. WTF?

At dinner we met Andy and Didi, also from Los Angeles. They too, like us, had quit their jobs to travel and shared a similar dynamic to Dan and I; Didi like me knows what she wants to do, Andy like Dan recognizes his skill set but is still waiting for a distinct “a-ha” revelation. I love and appreciate that both Dan and Andy are giving themselves this experience and space to figure it out.

Dinner and conversation flowed easily that night between ourselves, Andy & Didi, Matt & Nienke. During happy hour “buy one get one free” Andy and Didi hooked me up with a shot of homemade rice whiskey.

The owner Chin of the private island and hotel made a point to chat with us all a bit. He seemed like a cool guy, had some swag with his fedora and cig pegged at the corner of his mouth. He was responsible for the rice whiskey; my hero.

Thankfully the dormitory was equipped with electric blankets for all guests. We turned ours on, slipped beneath its heat and fell asleep. I remember feeling like a bowl of melted icing.

The next morning Matt, Nienke, Dan and I tackled two hikes on the island. The first was a short but difficult trek up a steep hillside. It involved some jagged razor sharp rocks and protruding branches that made my private parts feel vulnerable. The payoff was the 360 view of the water surrounding Cat Ong Island.

The second hike to Sunset Beach was more leveled but a bit dodgy at some parts; if one was not careful of their footing or balance they stood at risk for taking a ride down the hillside. Sunset Beach was pretty and serene. It could have used a litter clean up, but its beauty, proximity and accessibility was quite lovely.

Upon our return, as we neared the hotel, a large black pig blocked our path. He protested in high squeals when approached; he clearly did not want to move. Various scenarios were evaluated until Matt shook a branch and the pig moved.

We were served lunch and then ushered into the same ball boat that brought us to the island. We all admired the man who steered the boat; he took a hit on his foot long tobacco pipe while steering with his feet. Incredible.

Our experience overall was a great one. We’re glad we booked through Friends Travel; they’re honest and care greatly about the tours and packages they provide. Though there were some kinks Chin needed to polish on his side, the value for the money was well worthwhile.

Meeting and becoming friends with Nienke and Matt was definitely a bonus.

-Tania

HANOI, VIETNAM

Frustrated by the lack of proper wi Fi this blog is being posted as is without any photos. Hopefully I will be able to add them later. So here goes, enjoy!

We arrived in Northern Vietnam on Saturday Jan 10 2015. The process of our visas-on-arrival went smoothly due to our online pre-approval. Having come from a warm, tropical climate we were not properly prepared for the cold weather that greeted us.

As we exited the airport, ready to hail a taxi, we saw our breaths in the air and our skin was chilled. Warm clothing was needed ASAP.

Booked at Atrium Hanoi Hotel in the Hoan Kiem District of the Old Quarter, we were fortunate to be amidst all the eateries and clothing shops. Our mission; pho and warm clothes. We spent our first day walking through the Old Quarter, in search of a wardrobe.

We only did two “touristy” activities while in Hanoi. En route to Hoa Lo Prison, we walked along Hoan Kiem Lake and took a few photos of the Ngoc Son Temple. Legend has it that a great tortoise emerged from the depths and grabbed the giant sword of Emperor Le Thai To and disappeared with it to the bottom of the lake.

There as we approached the lake, Dan tried donut holes on a stick. There was an abundance of women who sold them. Unfortunately the lot Dan got were stale and that ruined it for all the rest of our stay; Dan was reluctant to purchase another set of donut holes. I do not blame him.

Hoa Lo Prison presented the dark truth of just how brutal its existence was. But it also unveiled the resilience of the Vietnam resistance and the people. For those of you that know of my energy readings with brick, stone and wood I made a point to not touch anything.

The architecture within the old district had its French influence. The faces of buildings appeared like quilts; closely woven together.

Most buildings were three to five stories tall. The first floor was typically a store front, the other floors possessed architectural eloquence, like a budding floral from a simple vase. Every time I looked up, I was always charmed.

There were two days that we each felt poorly. Those days we stayed close to the hotel and allowed ourselves to rest. One day was filled with eating; pure, simple enjoyment of the local cuisine. We had egg coffee, pho, swirl cuts of potato on a stick, chicken skewers with hot sauce, hot pan of chicken and beef, sweet corn and finished with desert at a French cafe.

We became regulars at the following:

Smile cafe on Cau Go – best egg coffee and white coffee.

The Little Black Duck on Nha Hang
– an adorable restaurant, great food and a wonderful staff who bust their butts providing top notch service with a smile. They ran up and down stairs, with full dishes and drinks. We tried their fried spring rolls and crispy duck. For desert I had rice paper rolls stuffed with shredded coconut and sesame seeds, with chocolate sauce.

Cam Pho Co on Ng Sieu – the best caramel custard. It had a great consistency and a hint of coffee.

Pho Bien on Hang Buom – where I went for pho three days in a row.

Having been in such a busy district of Hanoi really gave us insight into the locals’ social dynamics. Similar to Balinese culture, Vietnamese socializing happens all out in the open. Wether it was a mass of young adults gathered around hookah tables, hot pots or coffee, they gathered in large groups, collected together on short stools, on the side walks. The older generation gathered as well in their own groups. As people tended to their shops, they visited with each other. Relationships are of genuine value.

As more and more young adults move to the city for work opportunities, the more congested the roadways have become. Sort of like Los Angeles, but with narrow one-lane roads where cars, motorbikes/scooters and people weave together. It was insane and overwhelming at first. Eventually we grew numb to the idea of getting hit. At one point we had horns blaring from behind and in front of us, with no where to move aside because of parked bikes, and a restaurant menu thrusted in our face. Madness.

The madness, the frenzied energy, delicious food and old world charm give Hanoi a pulse. The people give it heart.

Xin Cam On
(Thank you)
– Tania

2 Nights in Bangkok

From Denspasar, Bali we flew into Bangkok, Thailand for a two night stop over. Bangkok was a whirl; an immediate immersion into a new city and culture.

Side walks were fully in-tack, walkable and safe. The streets were clean; missing trash and clutter. Buildings were tall and modern. Streets were full three lane roadways going each direction. It was strangely familiar and odd at the same time.

Our hotel was located in Silom, a trendy part of town with its assortment of high end shops and clothing booths. Our first night, eager to see our surroundings, we had dinner in alley Soi 22. The food smelled good and the seats were filled. This was taken as a good sign so we sat, ordered and ate. The food was good but portions were small in proportion to its price.

In researching where to go for breakfast the next morning, I came across a blog that directed us to a place around the corner, and learned that Soi 22 was a tourist trap.

Breakfast at Krua Ar-Roy Ar-Roy was delicious. Dan and I each had their egg, noodle and kale dish. I washed mine down with a glass of cold chrysanthemum tea.

We had a hard time finding a cab to the Grand Palace that was willing to run the meter. Once at the Grand Palace, I got ushered right into a scam. The guy started by saying my pants were not the appropriate length and the palace was not selling tickets again until 1pm. Why not take a tuk-tuk for only 20D and go see three free sights.? It sounded like a good deal so before I fully comprehended the full picture we were en route to the Marble Temple. That’s when Dan realized we’d been scammed. Blaargh!

We saw the Marble Temple and took in the three story tall gold Buddha.

We got exact change for our tuk-tuk ride and readied ourselves for an argument with our driver. We stated we wanted to go straight back to the palace. He pleaded with us to make one stop at a shop that would give him gas money in compensation. Something Dan predicted would happen. Being nice, we went. We were in and out in 5 minutes and then back on our way to the palace.

Though Ana had strongly suggested we go early to the palace, we failed to do so and thus became a part of a herd of tourists. We shuffled along, from the heat and crowd, through the grounds. Quick tip: tell hawkers you’re looking for the toilet. They’ll point you in the right direction and leave you alone.

Next was Wat Pho Temple, where the largest Reclining Buddha resides. The hall rung with the sound numerous “tings” with coins deposited into offering bowls. The Reclining Buddha is 46 meters in length and 15 meters in height. Truly enormous!

Wat Pho is the oldest temple in Bangkok. It has beautiful layout of temples, pagodas, grand urn containers and a monastery. It provided some of the best information and insight into Thai history.

http://www.asiarediscovery.com/thailand/162-bangkok-attraction-temple-of-reclining-buddha-wat-pho-wat-phra-chetuphon-

From there we walked to Pier 7 and grabbed a bus-boat down to Pier 1. The ride along the Chao Phraya River was intriguing with its array of old and modern architecture.

Once back in Silom, we made way to Nadimo’s for dinner; a Lebanese restaurant. It had the best Bobaganoush! It was minced, light and even fluffy. Since we had to be up at 3am for our flight out to Hanoi the next morning, we called it a day, packed and prepared for our journey the following morning.

– Tania